Dozier Dome (Sierra Nevada; ~9,330')

Dozier Dome, which is more of a cliff than a dome, is located behind Pywiack Dome. It is reached by a short walk from the highway starting at a trailhead just east of dozier Dome. The routes include the classic ``Holdless Horror'' (the name is a joke).

Topo Map

Routes: Holdless Horror (I, 5.6)


Dozier Dome (behind Pywiack Dome) in mid-September across Tenaya Lake

Date: August 30, 2009

Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz

Route: Holdless Horror

Equipment: Rack to Camalot #4

Time: 2 hours

Trip report:

For the last day of our trip we decided to go for something with an easier approach than Matthes Crest, which we originally had contemplated. Dozier Dome fit the bill, and turned out to be quite nice. Holdless Horror is anything but what the name (which results from a joke by the first ascensionists) suggests. If done as a 5.0 offwidth it's very awkward, but as a 5.6 stemming route it's very enjoyable. Both the angle and the difficulty ease after the first pitch, and the walkoff towards the west is very impressive, with colorfull watermarks all over the slopes. We finished the day (and the trip) by climbing the first pitch of Errett Out.

Photo Gallery:

Click the thumbnails to see a higher resolution image

Dietrich at the first belay.

Paul on the second pitch.

Paul on the summit.

Paul on the descent.

Watermarks on the west slopes.

The NW corner of Dozier Dome.